Domaine de Saint Estève
Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence AC

Like many of the older properties in the region, Domaine de St Estève is large and probably has remained mostly unchanged since the days of the Roman latifundias. Just down the hill from the existing mostly 18th century château lies an unexcavated Roman villa. Of the 150 hectares of the estate, 45 hectares are vineyard. The best 12 hectares of these produce the Domaine St Estève Rouge.

I have known the property for some years, as an old friend of Francis Wishart and have seen the sweeping changes over the past ten years. In the past the domaine sent all its grapes to the cave co-operative, struggling to reach 10.5-11% alcohol. Then, through the instigation and with the encouragement of Michel Chapoutier, the entire farm went biodynamic and exciting things happened in the vineyard. Yields dropped by half, pruning became stricter and concentration, whether measured by flavour or alcohol content, shot up. The vines looked healthier, became more resistant to disease, and produced ripe grapes earlier in the harvest (previously the autumn chills had been a real threat).

The wine is made from Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon. They are picked at perfect ripeness and given a long three week fermentation and maceration to extract all the flavour and richness. The wine has a fairly deep youthful colour and an attractive nose with lots of ripe fruit, including cherry, and a touch of spice. It has a lovely fruit attack, serious ripe tannin on the finish and a generous length. An attractive concentrated dry yet generous wine that will keep well for many years. Bottled unfiltered to keep all its character, there may be a deposit, so best decanted. Francis tells me that it almost impossible to get a hangover from it. Order this wine